E36 Suspension Mods

Sam

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Berkeley, CA
#1
I have a '93 325i with 89Kmi and do a lot of driving in the twisties so I am thinking of either installing a set of Bilstein heavy duty shocks and struts or the Bilstein BTS suspension kit with the stiffer springs and sport shocks & struts. Is anyone else using the BTS kit? How much does it stiffen the car up? Is it stilll comfortable around town? Thanks.
 
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Atlanta
#2
I'm also curious if anyone has good/bad experiences with different aftermarket shock/spring sets. I'm looking to do away with some body sway.
 
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Ohio
#3
to do away with body sway...keep the stock springs, and get a bigger anti roll bar. the current one is a little under 1". one that is 1.25" will make a huge differance, believe it or not.


also, you can get your stock springs cut at a performance shop. it does the same as a lowering spring. little stiffer ride, but not real stiff.
 
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San Diego, CA / Regensburg, D
#5
springs

Never get cut your original springs! That is the stupidest idea anybody can recomend for a BMW. Get a Billstein PSS coil over system. Thats one of the best upgrade. It cost around $900 for your model and you will be satisfied as much as you could.


Or just go with a better springs from Ibach or H&R.[thumb]
 

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Ohio
#7
Stupidest Idea? Please tell me how much you know about suspension modification. Cut springs, if done right, are no different than lowering springs.

And about a bigger Stabilizer bar, I haven't looked into buying one. I am gonna fabricate my own. Once I get it done, I'll see how well it turns out, and look into making more.

I am planning on go'n somewhere between 1 1/4" - 1 1/2".
 
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San Diego, CA / Regensburg, D
#9
springs.

Honda racers do cut springs and not a BMW Enthusiast. And I know probably more about sprigs than you think so. So please don't argue. If you want to cut spring than go ahead.

And there is a lot difference between stock spring and upgraded spring. Mostly in the molecular structure of the material my brother.[paranoid]
 
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Charleston, SC
#10
Building your own stabilizer bar isnt as great an idea as you think. much worse than cutting springs. It all has to do with the metal's composition. anything you can bend with a pipe bender is too weak for any sort of upgrade from whats already in your car. And even if you have the right metal and equipment (at least a 2 ton break press with pipe adaptor and blowtorch at hand), getting it straight is probably the toughest part.
When cutting your springs, it can be quite complicated. Why not just get deeper spring caps from BMP??
 
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#11
I go to school at wyotech. I am in a class at the moment that has all the stuff for pretty much anything.

They teach that cutting is ok. Honda racers...they get adjustable coil over sleeves. Not cut their springs. They aren't that bright.

Several of my teachers are Ex-race car drivers/builders, and they ALL cut springs to lower their race cars. Cutting the springs increases the spring rate, which is what most lowering springs are made for, to get an increased spring rate for less body roll. And for the complication, its not so bad. Last thursday we cut the springs on my friends WRX, and it drives awesome. Just make sure your measurements are right.

And BeemerWorld, what is the moleculer structure that you're making referance to?

And for the fabrication of my own sway bar, I wouldn't use a "pipe" bender, I'd use a tubing bender. I Also have an oxy-acetalene torch with heating tips(Which I wouldn't use, because heating of suspension components is bad. It makes them brittle(and the last thing you want is a brittle sway bar)). I've researched this stuff, its not really that hard. And I don't think BMW gets some magic moon metal to make their stabilizer bar, So I think the 4130 Steel Tubing I would be using, would be fine.

I'm not gonna sit here and post "posts" about stuff I don't know anything about.

Buying stuff is nice yeah, but if you got the means to make your own, and make it just as well, then why not save the 4-500 dollars you'd spend on the other stuff? It makes sense doesn't it?

Oh yeah, and for one more referance about spring cutting, check out Chapter 5 of Herb Adams book "Chassis Engineering". Specifically page 35. I'm sure that guy knows what he's talking about.
 


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