318i US model '97 starts cold on 2nd try

Mike1

New Member
Messages
4
Likes
0
Location
Croatia
#1
Hi to everyone. I'm new to the Forum and have a question. Driving as a first owner a 1997 318i, US model, 4 years ago quality chip-tuned (by software) in Germany (151 HP). Months ago started making cold start problems. Most of the time it starts promptly on a 2nd try, "caughing" on the first (this means ca. 5% of the time it starts clean on the first try when cold).Cold means overnight, next morning. Even at the last Inspection II a BMW serviceman could not explain the problem, claimed that nth could be detected. At the inspection, I had the lambda-sensor replaced. Car has now some 123.000 kms. No other problems recorded, except that the check engine light comes on when driving in really wet conditions (comes off when dry. This was a cosmetic problem before the lambda was replaced. The ceck engine would come on in wet, up to the moment when it did not come off. That was before the mentioned Inspection II I had several months ago. But, to be clear - my emmission control is much BETTER than stock).
Runs excellent otherwise. Purrs, is quick, agile on the pedal. I use only premium oils, like Castrol SLX 0-30 and now Mobil1 5-50. What is the cause? Fuel? Water in the tank? Carbon build up? Should I be worried, is it a beginning of an other, more serious problem? something with the DME?
 
Messages
4,917
Likes
18
Location
Reading,PA
#2
I can't speak specifically for your BMW, but I have seen this problem on Volvos, so maybe this might be some help. On Volvos, they had a check valve in the fuel pump. The purpose was to prevent the fuel from draining back out of the injector rail so that fuel was there on cold start. If this check valve leaked back fuel, the engine would not immediately have fuel until the line was recharged by the pump for a few seconds. It took a little while to leak back, so warm starts were OK. Volvo uses Bosch ignition and fuel systems and I think BMW does also.

On some Volvos you could test this by turning the key in the on position but not to the start position. If you let it sit for 10 seconds or so, the fuel pump would run and recharge the line. Then it would start right away. You might try this as a test.
 

Mike1

New Member
Messages
4
Likes
0
Location
Croatia
#3
Thanks, Kirby. I actually thought about that, several times I tried, but not that long (10 or more seconds, I'd wait for 5-8 secs). I'll try for longer, as you suggested.
It's kinda annoying thing...
 

Mike1

New Member
Messages
4
Likes
0
Location
Croatia
#4
Kirby, you were right. I have to keep it in start position for more than 15 sec. then it jumps right away. In any case, could this be a beginning of a bigger problem in the pump or should I ignore it?
 
Messages
4,917
Likes
18
Location
Reading,PA
#5
If it takes 15 seconds, it's probably not going to get much worse, it will just continue to be a pain in the a$$. It might cause the pump to eventually fail a little sooner, but it's nothing that you need to run out and replace tomorrow.

If you don't mind the possiblity of being unexpectedly stranded, wait for it to fail. Might be years until it does. If you prefer to do preventative maint., save up some $$ and replace it when convenient.
 


Top