318is is running like crap

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pittsburg
#1
I was wondering what could be wrong the check engine light is on, i replaced the o2 sensor and it feels like my car has no torque. When i am already going fast it hauls ass, but it doesnt pick up speed like it use to, is there anyway to check what might be wrong? could it be something like the spark plug wires ? any ideas thanks
 
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Fort Worth, TX
#2
Check out the Fuel Pressure Regulator. If like my 328i that had oil in it that could be your problem. in addition you may have an intake manifold gasket blown, or the oil diffuser gasket may be blown (i am told that's common) and your vacuume may be f'd up. You might want to obtain a fault code reader to help dianose and read the fault codes.

Just suggestions.
 

epj3

Senior Member
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#3
Here's what you do -- get the check engine light to come on, After it's on, turn it off completely, then turn it to 'on' but don't crank it. Read how many times the check engine light BLINKS. Post it and I can tell ya what it is.
 

epj3

Senior Member
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#5
Mastermind833 said:
i cant get it to blink , i turn it on and it just stays on , what can i do ?
Turn the car ON, let it run for like 15 seconds, turn it off completely, then turn it to the 'on' position (don't start it... this is the key's furthest position w/out actually starting it).
 
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pittsburg
#6
i did what you said to do and it didnt work. the light doesnt blink when i put it on , on, it just turns on and doesnt blink. do u have anymore ideas? or suggestions thanks
 
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pittsburg
#7
How do i check the fuel pressure regulator and all those other things you told me about? Do u know where they are located and how to see if there messed up? If i took it to the dealer would they be able to find out the problem? thanks
 
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Fort Worth, TX
#8
Under the vehicle (drivers side) there is a heat shield held in place by 2 cap nuts and 2 std nuts (10mm). Remove the shield and you will find the little fuel pressure regulator that is held in place with a clip. E-mail me at [email protected] and i can send you a picture of the fuel presure regulator.
As for an intake manifold leak or the oil diffuser gasket leak you will need to have a leak down test performed and a compression test. Those 2 tests cost me 278 bills at a shop in Michigan.

They concluded from the tests that my compression was within specks but found the leaks in the intake manifold and diffuser from their experience with other bmws.

Suggest you shop around your home town for labor hour rates. I would avoid the dealership as their labor rates are generally 40 bucks higher than an independant shop that specializes in German vehicles.

Good Luck

I discovered my problem is that RMS sent me 36 lb fuel injectors, should have put in 28 pounders.
 

Big Daddy

Senior Member
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PNW (Left) Coast
#9
Also check the vacuum hose that attaches to the under side of the rubber boot between the air filter and MAF. I have had that one pop off on my 318 before, makes the car run rough and idle poor at low rpms.
 
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Location
pittsburg
#10
could it have something to do with the aftermarket intake i put in my car? Because i dont have an air box anymore, its just a adaptor and a filter on it. My car does leak a little bit of oil but i dont know where it comes from, and sometimes it leaks and sometimes it doesnt, it comes from the front drivers side of the car, well around that region
 
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Location
pittsburg
#11
Also does anyone know why the gas pedal on my car sticks sometimes , it feels like it is hard then all of a sudden it goes, this usually happens when it really is running crappy, like no torque what so ever, I cant even peel out in it, I rev it all the way , then pop the clutch and all i get is the wheels gripping a little bit, It is driving me crazy
 
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Dallas
#12
to check the check engine light you turn it to the on position like said above, then push the gas peddal all the way down 5 times with in 5 sec. and the falt code should be comming out as blinks. this is how it is on my 318iS but its an e30
 
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Location
Germany
#13
"check engine" might be caused from some more things :(

...check the resistance with a multimeter -->
- of the injection nozzles
- of the throttle valve
- your air-velocity-unit
- your ingition coil

in most cases when the motor is cold an you drive with low rpm the motor runs good. if he goes warmer, you run with higher rpm and the motor runs retty shit it's a damage in your ignition coils (resitance runs up caused of increased temperature-> igniton voltage goes down)

Looky
 
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Location
pittsburg
#15
Well i got the check engine light to blink and it goes on for like a sec or 2 then it pauses blinks again, then pauses blinks 2 quickly then pauses and blinks and pauses and blinks then it repeats it, does anyone know what this means? Also my car does seem to run better when it is cold, So what exactly about the ignition coils ? what do i got to do to see if that is the problem? Is that different from the spark plug wires?
 


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