94-96 changes
- Thread starter bmwperson
- Start date
Wow, you're asking for quite a bit believe it or not. Let's talk 325s. In 96 BMW and everyone for that matter changed from the OBD I to the OBD II standard of emissions controls. First they changed the displacement from 2.5L to 2.8L. The MAJOR differences is that BMW dropped Bosche for their fuel injection systems because Bosche refused a confidentiality clause in their contract so BMW went with Siemens who agreed to the clause for 3 years. This new system by Siemens included a new MAF meter, intake manifold, 4 O2 sensors instead of 1, a vacuum pump to heat up the cats, and of course Siemens own fuel injectors. They also colored the sideskirts, front and rear bumper to the body color. They curved the front grill out a little bit further, almost bulging out. They also changed the muffler, under 2500 RPMs there was only one open pipe in the muffler, after that rev it opens up the second pipe for extra power. I could seriously go on forever, there is just so much. But that was the intial stuff I could think of off the top of my head. Basically if you buy a 96, expect to have someone else work on your car, if you buy a 95 you can do most of the work yourself.
hehe, you got me there. Im trying to decide which one to pick, i can buy a nice 94 with low milage for 7k or add a couple for hundred and get a 96. You got me thinking when you said that 94-95 you can fix yourself and 96es ill be needing a help of a pro. I dont have much money, especialy on repairs ( hehe who has em ;> ) Im starting collage soon, id rather have a car that i can depend on. PS are there any known issues with 94-96 e36es? Im looking only into buying 325/328 94-96 for about 7-9k, what do you think is the optimal choice?
Ok, awesome decision on getting an E36 by the way. If you're going to spend around 7-9k and your going to college, definetly get a 95. They are the best choice. The newer ones are more expensive to work on. I suggest as SOON as you get the car (seriously don't wait at all) buy these parts and replace them
Bently Repair Manual (an absolute must have, it's expensive but it's nearly perfect)
Water pump with a METAL impellar
Aluminum thermostat housing and gasket
88 degree thermostat and o-ring
That water pump will fail you in a heat beat because BMW decided to put plastic impellars on the water pump and they constantly flex too large and lock inside the head and break. It's horrible so make sure you fix it. You should also replace the thermostat stuff because BMW decided to make their engines run hotter to help emissions so they stuck a 98 degree thermostat in their cooling system. When you buy the 88 degree thermostat you should also get the 318ti thermostat switch (the switch on the side of the radiator near the coolant storage tank) This way your baby will run nice and cool which will prevent MAJOR problems in the future.
Bently Repair Manual (an absolute must have, it's expensive but it's nearly perfect)
Water pump with a METAL impellar
Aluminum thermostat housing and gasket
88 degree thermostat and o-ring
That water pump will fail you in a heat beat because BMW decided to put plastic impellars on the water pump and they constantly flex too large and lock inside the head and break. It's horrible so make sure you fix it. You should also replace the thermostat stuff because BMW decided to make their engines run hotter to help emissions so they stuck a 98 degree thermostat in their cooling system. When you buy the 88 degree thermostat you should also get the 318ti thermostat switch (the switch on the side of the radiator near the coolant storage tank) This way your baby will run nice and cool which will prevent MAJOR problems in the future.
Well, not really. Not at all actually you see, having the temp get really high really quick is what BMW was trying to accomplish because as soon as the car starts, the catalytic converter is doing squat but once the engine has been running for a little while, it's working at full potential, no matter how cold the engine is. So unless you live next door to the DMV don't worry about it.
As far as what you should pay, we'd need to know what kind of car you're buying. Mileage, damage, repairs, records, all that kind of stuff.
As far as what you should pay, we'd need to know what kind of car you're buying. Mileage, damage, repairs, records, all that kind of stuff.
well i didnt have anything particular in mind, i saw one car, 94 325i 88k manual 4dr the dealer is asking 6500$ car is in good condition, dont know about the records. if i buy this one, ill have some money left, ill replace all the parts you gave me + new rims altho the one im buying has nice rims buy they dont look as nice as he M3 ones :> What im looking for is a 325-328I 4DR manual black ( hehe only black 
) 94-96 with less then 100k for 6-9k. Seems like 95 is a optimal choice. What do you think?
) 94-96 with less then 100k for 6-9k. Seems like 95 is a optimal choice. What do you think?
The 94s and 95s are very similar. The engine in the 95 is double-vanos, (has BMW's variable valve timing system, similar to VTEC, on both the exhaust and intake cams), whereas the 1994 is single-vanos only (exhaust cam I believe). I think 95 was the first year of the full body colored bumpers/side skirts, while the 92 has grey bumpers and the 93-94s are half and half. The side marker lights were phased in in 1994, and the sport package was first offered in 95 (I think, may have been 94).
The radiators are plastic and destined to crack.
The auto. trans. doesn't last, but you should buy a manual anyways.
The HVAC system is not the most robust, but pretty good. 1994s are R134a instead of R12, not sure about earlier years.
The stock radio has poor FM reception and lacks bass. You can plug in a changer if its pre-wired, or just replace the whole system.
The LCD display on the computer (if it has one) and/or the check control display tend to fade and/or LCDs burn out.
There is an issue with the rear end, known as the rear subframe issue (but not actually involving the rear subframe), that should be checked by the mechanice (you just need someone who knows to put it on a lift).
Run a carfax on the VIN, have a dealer or INDY mechanic check it out, and you should be okay.
This topic has come up before. Try a search of the forum for E36 problems, etc.
The radiators are plastic and destined to crack.
The auto. trans. doesn't last, but you should buy a manual anyways.
The HVAC system is not the most robust, but pretty good. 1994s are R134a instead of R12, not sure about earlier years.
The stock radio has poor FM reception and lacks bass. You can plug in a changer if its pre-wired, or just replace the whole system.
The LCD display on the computer (if it has one) and/or the check control display tend to fade and/or LCDs burn out.
There is an issue with the rear end, known as the rear subframe issue (but not actually involving the rear subframe), that should be checked by the mechanice (you just need someone who knows to put it on a lift).
Run a carfax on the VIN, have a dealer or INDY mechanic check it out, and you should be okay.
This topic has come up before. Try a search of the forum for E36 problems, etc.
For the E36, 325is means two-door coupe. It has nothing to do with the sport package, which was available on four-door sedans (I think it was available on the coupes as well, but I seem to always see sedans.) The easiest way to tell is to look for the 16" double-spoke rims (kind of like a smaller version of the M-parallels), although those can be purchased separately from BMW and replicas also exist.
HVAC is an initialism for Heating Ventilation and Air Conditioning. All E36 US models came with heat and AC.
A 94 or 95 would be fine. I own a 94. 96+ are nice, (a lot more torque in the 2.8 vs. the 2.5) but are OBDII emissions, so they are not as tunable in the aftermarket.
HVAC is an initialism for Heating Ventilation and Air Conditioning. All E36 US models came with heat and AC.
A 94 or 95 would be fine. I own a 94. 96+ are nice, (a lot more torque in the 2.8 vs. the 2.5) but are OBDII emissions, so they are not as tunable in the aftermarket.
I think there is an ASC button on the center console, near the lighter, where the seat heater and other misc. functions are found, but I don't know for sure. I am near certain there is a button somewhere to turn it off.
I would expect that you could trip the ASC by trying to get the wheels to spin, or is that ASC + T? (Automatic Slip(?) Control + Traction).
Hopefully, the owner will know. You really want to buy one from somebody who can tell you stuff about the car. If they can't, it might not have been kept properly.
I would expect that you could trip the ASC by trying to get the wheels to spin, or is that ASC + T? (Automatic Slip(?) Control + Traction).
Hopefully, the owner will know. You really want to buy one from somebody who can tell you stuff about the car. If they can't, it might not have been kept properly.
For the traction control, there should be a button on the right of the lighter that says "ASC". Also, you can look at the gauges while starting the car and see if there is a sign that looks like a ! in a triangle and there is an arrow going around it. You could try turning the wheel left or right when standing still and then floor it, if you see the sign I described earlier between the tach and the speedometer then it has it and it's on. brahtw8 do you know a way to know for sure if the car has sports package or not? I know the wheels are 16 inches and have 5 double spokes (you can see the rear right one in my sig) but I have no idea if the car has sports package or not. The extra wheel in the trunk (forgot what it's called) is 15 inches and 205 instead of 225. Thanks in advance.
I think there are some suspension differences as well, and I also seem to remember that the sports package cars have LSDs.
If you contacted BMW USA with the VIN, or perhaps a dealer, they should be able to tell you the spec of the car from the factory. A mechanic who knows BMWs should be able to tell from the differences.
If you contacted BMW USA with the VIN, or perhaps a dealer, they should be able to tell you the spec of the car from the factory. A mechanic who knows BMWs should be able to tell from the differences.
Hey, my dad just told me how to check the engine, just wondering if it works for bmws ;> (hes kinda old style ) anyway you`re supose to put piece of paper close to where you put your oil in and then press on the gas, if you can see anything on the paper then the engine has leaks. Lemmie know, tommorow first thing in the morning im going to the dealer. hehe its gonna be fun ;>
Thanks for all your helpful comments.
Thanks for all your helpful comments.