Air Bag Warning Light in Instrument Cluster

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Upper Montclair
#1
E39 1998 528i

My airbag warning light keeps coming on and shutting off. I will start the car and the airbag light will go on and than after driving 20 minuites the light will go off. I was wondering if anybody had any idea what is going on and how to correct it.

Thanks Again for the advice,

J to the O
 

CosmosBlack

Active Member
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Florida
#2
Something important like the airbag light, I would recommend you take it to the dealer to have the system checked. It might not work when you need it most. Or it might just deploy when you least expect it! Both situation as bad.

I wouldn't mess with the airbags myself or let anyone other than the dealer mess with it, reason being, in case something happens that shouldn't have, BMW will be liable.
 
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Murvin
#3
My 99 540ia is doing a similar thing. Both seatbelt and airbag lights are intermittent. It affects my steering wheel controls and visor lights as well.

I have read that failing ignition switch electronics can cause this. I bought the $60 part today from BMW and will install this weekend. I'll let you know if it cures mine.
 
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Plano, Texas
#4
Mine did the same thing ...

My airbag light came on and did the same thing a couple of days after I pore coffee on the passenger seat. Came to find out that the airbag actuator switch under the passenger seat went bad. If that is the case, I recommend you do it yourself, because the switch is not that expensive, but they charge you a lot for the labor. So, you need to get a reading to make sure that is the case and then you will be about $60 and few hours from fixing it.

Good Luck.
 
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Upper Montclair
#5
Njmurvin

You are totally right about the symptoms. I tried turning on the visor light and the steering controls radio, and airbag light went on and off. Do you think its the fail ignition switch or the airbag actuator switch.

The airbag light actually went off after playing with the visor light.

I'm sure its exactly the same situation as your car.

Let me know what happens and thanks for the advice.

J to the O
 
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Murvin
#6
The ignition switch changeout worked like a charm. All dash lights back in order.

As I mentioned, the part was $60 from the dealer (had it in stock). You can DIY if you're pretty handy. Otherwise, get it done by a pro. I found instructions on the web for a 740i that were spot on for the 540ia as well. Don't ask for a link because I can't find the site again. If you want to try it, let me know and I'll explain the process to you. It took me about an hour and I went very slowly. Someone who has done it before (and is comfortable cracking open the steering column) could do the whole job in 15 minutes.
 

Big Daddy

Senior Member
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#7
Good job guys, I love it when us DIY'ers are successful. I once had a sunroof cable break and was quoted over $800.00 to fix it. My brother and I did it in three hours and paid $60.00 for the cable on the net.
 
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Upper Montclair
#8
Njmurvin

Thanks for great information:

I was wondering if you needed to order new keys when you swapped out the ignition switch. Does this have any effect to the EWS Alarm System.

Thanks

J to the O
 
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Murvin
#9
J to the O said:
Njmurvin

Thanks for great information:

I was wondering if you needed to order new keys when you swapped out the ignition switch. Does this have any effect to the EWS Alarm System.

Thanks

J to the O
Nope! The key cylinder is a separate component. This is an electronic component that is driven by a cam that comes out of the back of the key cylinder. I didn't take apart the old one, but I think there's a bunch of contacts inside that must have corroded or worn out over time - the plastic cover is translucent white and had some discoloration which might be an indication of arcing. The fix is now a week old and holding!
 
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Upper Montclair
#10
Njmurvin

Thanks again for replying back!!!!!!!!!!

I opened up the steering column and I was confused about the ignition switch module. I saw a module that looked like a relay that was white with 8 wires coming out of it. I was not able to loosen it out. I was wondering if you could give me that web site with the instructions and the p/n number of the iginition switch so I can double check. If you could give me a brief description of the repair proceedures, I would appreciate very much.

Thanks again,

J to the O
 
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Murvin
#11
J to the O said:
Njmurvin

Thanks again for replying back!!!!!!!!!!

I opened up the steering column and I was confused about the ignition switch module. I saw a module that looked like a relay that was white with 8 wires coming out of it. I was not able to loosen it out. I was wondering if you could give me that web site with the instructions and the p/n number of the iginition switch so I can double check. If you could give me a brief description of the repair proceedures, I would appreciate very much.

Thanks again,

J to the O
If you opened the steering column, you did most of the work. I looked for the website and couldn't find it again. It was something I tripped over . . . in searching for instructions and I can't seem to retrace my steps. However, the job isn't difficult once you get the steering column open.

I don't have the part number for the switch. Go to the dealer and describe it as the "electrical part" of the ignition switch. It should cost around $60. It's kind of cylindrical in shape and mostly black with a white translucent cover over the electrical contacts.

Open the steering column by removing the top and bottom screws. Lower the column and telescope it out as far as you can to get the best access. You need to remove both top and bottom covers completely by unclipping from the leather. I tried to do this without removing the top one and couldn't gain access to the top torx screw with it on. The covers turned out to be very easy to R&R.

On the left of the column, you'll see the switch. It has a white rectangular wire plug (which I think is what you saw). You need to pull up a little locking tab on the side of the plug in order to unplug it. There are two torx screws that hold a black plastic bracket that has to come loose, but not out. The top one is a PITA to get to. You might think you can do the job without loosening this, but I couldn't. The bottom one was easy. I had to use a curved allen wrench on the top one. This was the second hardest part of the job for me (the first being the opening of the steering column).

You'll also find two very small red painted set screws. The paint covers the screw heads. These are set screws that lock the switch from moving. They need to be loosened as well. Scrape the paint off first to reveal the screw slot. Then use a small jeweler's screwdriver to loosen - but not remove. A couple of turns is all you need.

The switch should now pull out. One end of the switch engages with the end of the key cylinder. Note the position of the white dial on the end of the switch you remove. Use a slotted screwdriver to position the dial in the same position of the new switch before you install it. It will be obvious when you see it.

Now reverse the above procedure and you should be good to go.

Good luck.
 
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Location
Upper Montclair
#14
Njmurvin,

Thanks Again for all the great help you supplied me with.

I had a friend help me install the ignition switch module and it took about 30 min. I had to buy a torx wrench inorder to remove it.

Everything is working great and my friend said its very common for these parts to break.

Thanks Again you saved me a ton of money because who knows how much the dealership would have charged me.

J to the O
 


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