Brake rotors.
- Thread starter M.Regello
- Start date
There are two sensors per car. One on the front LHS, and one on the rear RHS.
If like me you have a pretty good idea of the state of your pads all the time, then you can opt to save the $ for new sensors (not much - probably about $20US) and either put up with the light, remove the bulb, or short out the sensor wires.
If like me you have a pretty good idea of the state of your pads all the time, then you can opt to save the $ for new sensors (not much - probably about $20US) and either put up with the light, remove the bulb, or short out the sensor wires.
Shorting out the wire was always my option on my old e30's
OF course you have the sensors if your light is on, and it was standard on all cars. It might only be on because it's un plugged, or because your lining is worn out. No need to panic. It's pretty straight forward. The sesnsors are only about $6 if I remember correctly, and they get replaced when you do the pads (as they are attaced to the pads upon installation)
OF course you have the sensors if your light is on, and it was standard on all cars. It might only be on because it's un plugged, or because your lining is worn out. No need to panic. It's pretty straight forward. The sesnsors are only about $6 if I remember correctly, and they get replaced when you do the pads (as they are attaced to the pads upon installation)
http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/techarticles/E36-Brake_Pads/E36-Brake_Pads.htm
Check it out... (figure 15)
Check it out... (figure 15)
Make sure you torque all your caliper bolts, and caliper bracket bolts to the correct spec., and clean and re-grease the sliding caliper bolts... very important with floating calipers. The only other pieces you might want to pick up are the disc locator allen head bolts. They tend to strip a bit, or may be stripped already, and they're cheap... use anti-seize when re-intalling.
Are you actually doing the work yourself?
Are you actually doing the work yourself?
Correct torque is not the problem, or cleaning and lubing the sliders. The problem is that the bolts are self-locking, which means the locking part only works one time. I really don't want to take out a loan to put new bolts in to replace the self locking feature. I'm going to use Permatex Threadlocker; I think it should work well. Any reason Permatex Threadlocker won't work? As far as the disc locater bolts are concerned, I've had trouble with almost every single one that I had to deal with. It seems the worst ones are the ones that are countersunk with a Philips head. i got new ones (($30.00/4 at BMW) and I have NeverSeize. Yeah, I do my own work. I was a Mechanic (notice I didn't say "technician") in the Air Force and have been one on and off ever since. Also I have trust "issues" with any one else working on my car. They never seem to do it quite the way I like.
The metric hex bolts that hold the rear calipers on the brackets ARE self locking, when you take them out you can see the locking compound on them, and the rear pads from Ate came with two new bolts that had the same self locking compound on them in the same places as the old bolts. Also the slide pins for the front calipers had the same self locking compound in the same place as the rear bolts. Although the Bently manual has some things left out, it does say to replace the bolts ant sliders with new ones. M.Regello
those disk retaining screws are always bad monkeys to get out i think they are for keeping the bolt holes for the wheels linked, god forbid you get a flat tire in the dark and the rotor is spinning around as well....nevertheless I usually just drill em out with a titainium drill bit or just screw the rotors (generally OK anyway) and simply do the pads and sensor wire...much cheaper and easier and virtually always succesfull...warped rotors that "need turning" are one of the biggest profit making rip-offs in the repair business, they'll always tell you need the rotors shaved, if not new ones....good luck