Clutch Question

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Tulsa Ok
#1
I have noticed that while driving I only have to push the clutch in 1/4 of the distance for it to engage. Is this normal or is it a sign of wear.
 
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Melbourne, AUS
#4
Yeah I wouldn't necessarily go out and buy a new clutch just yet. Some cars are different. Some engage later than others but this doesn't always mean that your clutch is buggered. My mate's E30 has a really late clutch enagement but it still has plenty of meat left on it.

What I would do to test the clutch is pull up the handbrake and feed the clutch in while stationary. If the revs get bogged down then it means the clutch is biting. If the revs flare then it's probably stuffed. Also, if the pedal feels like it's pulsating a lot when you engage the clutch then this is probably a sign of wear.

Do this before you go out and buy a new clutch-kit. They're expensive!
 
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St. Louis, MO | Los Angeles, CA
#6
Even if you have about 95K it might be wearing out. Another great way to test if it's really worn out is try start in other gears. Typically a person starts in first gear and from time ot time second gear. If you can start in third+ gears without stalling at all then you defintely need a new clutch.
 
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Omaha, NE
#7
I have a '98 M3 with 75K on it. my clutch engages at about the same point as yours. However, i think mine may be worn a little but definately not wore out. Im still in the learning process, but i have a new theory:

i recently replaced a clutch that i thought was wore out in a toyota pickup due to late engagement (the toyota didnt have this problem until it had many miles)...But I found out that the new clutch engages at the same point as the old one, and the old clutch disk was not wore out when i had everything apart. I now think that the problem may lie in either the master cylinder or slave cylinder...if these are wore out then engagement will be late and sluggish... i have yet to change any of these parts on the toyota so i cant say for sure

another thing to think about is the clutch fluid itself...the fluid in the brake system and the clutch system in your bimmer is the same fluid...brake fluid eventually takes on moisture and can lead to premature wear and rusting in mechanical components...so if the fluid is old or you have a little air in your M3 system, this may be some of the problem with late engagement or sluggish and spongy clutch motions. i have heard brake and clutch fluids should be changed once a year...hope this helps!!!
 
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#8
B M W said:
If you can start in third+ gears without stalling at all then you defintely need a new clutch.
This is basically what I suggested, but using the handbrake is better because some cars have more torque than others and using the your method will work better for some cars over others.
 
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#9
albinomidget said:
I have a '98 M3 with 75K on it. my clutch engages at about the same point as yours. However, i think mine may be worn a little but definately not wore out. Im still in the learning process, but i have a new theory:

i recently replaced a clutch that i thought was wore out in a toyota pickup due to late engagement (the toyota didnt have this problem until it had many miles)...But I found out that the new clutch engages at the same point as the old one, and the old clutch disk was not wore out when i had everything apart. I now think that the problem may lie in either the master cylinder or slave cylinder...if these are wore out then engagement will be late and sluggish... i have yet to change any of these parts on the toyota so i cant say for sure

another thing to think about is the clutch fluid itself...the fluid in the brake system and the clutch system in your bimmer is the same fluid...brake fluid eventually takes on moisture and can lead to premature wear and rusting in mechanical components...so if the fluid is old or you have a little air in your M3 system, this may be some of the problem with late engagement or sluggish and spongy clutch motions. i have heard brake and clutch fluids should be changed once a year...hope this helps!!!

This is good advice IMHO. And yes, clutch fluid, like brake fluid, is hydroscopic (ie, it absorbs moisture)!
 
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#10
If you can start in third+ gears without stalling at all then you defintely need a new clutch.[/QUOTE]



Yep I tried that and it died. Thanks for the tip.
 


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