i need urgent help!
- Thread starter sm32589g
- Start date
From the back of the car, look underneath at the rear suspension. you will see the differential in the center of a frame assembly. The frame assembly is sometimes called the "subframe" or "differential carrier". You will see part of it horizontal underneath the differential, dead center.
This is a safe and perfect place to jack the rear. I take a piece of 2x4 and place it between the jack and the subframe, and jack it up.
WARNING: I personally WOULD NOT do this with a bottle jack, ONLY do this with a floor jack. And of course YOU MUST PLACE JACKSTANDS under the rear jack pads, and lower the car onto the jack stands. NEVER GO UNDER A CAR SUPPORTED ONLY BY A JACK!! I do leave the jack in place as a safety/backup support, but make sure the weight is on the jackstands.
Also, CONCRETE BLOCKS do not qualify as supports. Years ago, there was a guy killed locally when the concrete blocks he used cracked and the car fell on him. (Darwin Award Candidate!)
This is a safe and perfect place to jack the rear. I take a piece of 2x4 and place it between the jack and the subframe, and jack it up.
WARNING: I personally WOULD NOT do this with a bottle jack, ONLY do this with a floor jack. And of course YOU MUST PLACE JACKSTANDS under the rear jack pads, and lower the car onto the jack stands. NEVER GO UNDER A CAR SUPPORTED ONLY BY A JACK!! I do leave the jack in place as a safety/backup support, but make sure the weight is on the jackstands.
Also, CONCRETE BLOCKS do not qualify as supports. Years ago, there was a guy killed locally when the concrete blocks he used cracked and the car fell on him. (Darwin Award Candidate!)
thanks but you guys dont have to waste your time explaining all the basics im not a beginner i just thought that there was a different way to take off the rotor than what i was trying. but anyways can you please write me all the steps i should take to take off the rotor so i dont miss anything. thanks ahead of time. o and i need all the steps mostly because this is probably the last chance ill get to replace my stupid rotors.
Dude you say you aren't a beginner but you don't know how to remove a rotor... no offense but a brake job is a step above an oil change.
Anyways...
1. Remove wheel, calipers, and caliper bracket (so you should have NOTHING in the way, just a rotor hanging there) and take the e-brake off.
2. remove the 7 or 8mm hex nut holding the rotor to the hub
3. SPRAY THE HUB WITH PB BLASTER. WD40 IS SHIT. GO TO AUTOZONE AND BUY PB BLASTER. It really IS a miracle in a can. Guarantee you if you spray that stuff down with PB blaster and let it sit for 10 minutes and then hit it around with a hammer, it (the rotor) WILL FALL RIGHT OFF assuming your e-brake is off.
4. Spray the now-'naked' hub with more pb blaster, and wipe it down with some rags. Then take some ANTI-SEIZE compound and put it allllllllllllll around the hub.
Should be good to go from there. Trust me you're just not tapping that crap hard enough. My question is if you're replacing the rear brakes why is your dad nervous about the old rotor being warped? It wont though, those rotors are probably solid and not vented. Unless they are aluminum, I HIGHLY doubt you'll be able to get CLOSE to warping it with a hammer. If you hit it hard enough to warp it, I would be worried about the subframe or trailing arms you probably bent...
Anyways...
1. Remove wheel, calipers, and caliper bracket (so you should have NOTHING in the way, just a rotor hanging there) and take the e-brake off.
2. remove the 7 or 8mm hex nut holding the rotor to the hub
3. SPRAY THE HUB WITH PB BLASTER. WD40 IS SHIT. GO TO AUTOZONE AND BUY PB BLASTER. It really IS a miracle in a can. Guarantee you if you spray that stuff down with PB blaster and let it sit for 10 minutes and then hit it around with a hammer, it (the rotor) WILL FALL RIGHT OFF assuming your e-brake is off.
4. Spray the now-'naked' hub with more pb blaster, and wipe it down with some rags. Then take some ANTI-SEIZE compound and put it allllllllllllll around the hub.
Should be good to go from there. Trust me you're just not tapping that crap hard enough. My question is if you're replacing the rear brakes why is your dad nervous about the old rotor being warped? It wont though, those rotors are probably solid and not vented. Unless they are aluminum, I HIGHLY doubt you'll be able to get CLOSE to warping it with a hammer. If you hit it hard enough to warp it, I would be worried about the subframe or trailing arms you probably bent...
What we're saying is; hit it with a hammer... wetting it with WD40 will not hurt if that's what you have in your garage already... the main thing is, to hit it, not tap it, or nudge it, but really hit it. hit it on the brake pad contact area, and hit it on the flat area where it mounts to the hub, since that's where it's actually stuck. WHEN it comes off, make sure you clean off all the new brake parts with brake cleaner, and it wouldn't hurt to put a little antiseize on the face of the hub before you put it all back together. Also make sure your guide bolts on your calipers are sliding smoothly, or your new rotors will be warped in no time.
Most importantly... Hit it hard. Seriously. This stumped me the first time I did my rear brakes... breezed through the fronts, and stalled on the frozen discs on the rear. Now I do them while I'm asleep.
Most importantly... Hit it hard. Seriously. This stumped me the first time I did my rear brakes... breezed through the fronts, and stalled on the frozen discs on the rear. Now I do them while I'm asleep.