power steering problems

jjjjjjj

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#1
ok, my '95 325i is beginning to have quite an issue: it eats a tankfull of power steering fluid in about 2 days and makes a horrible noise when it is low. i know something needs to be replaced, but where do i begin??

i also know there is a metal coil/hose type thing that i have seen dripping right past the rubber joint, ive gotten a price of $78 for that part, which is decent, but what i want to know is should i replace the pump too? i've had this e36 for almost a year and have loved every second of the driving, except for these past days....!

i replaced the entire rack and pinion on my old '87 325ic, but i have heard that this newer rack is way more expensive than the older ones and may not need replacing. my car currently has 138k miles on it and this is the first problem i've ran into. has anybody else been through this? any advice would be greatly appreciated!
 
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#2
Sorry I can't help, but how was changing your E30 steering rack? I'm changing mine soon and I've kind of been dreading it/putting it off. I already have the complete tie rods, I just haven't ordered the rack yet. Did you need any special tools?
 

Bmw 325i 7803

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#3
My 04 330i makes a "metal moan" like a mmmmmmmmmmmmmmm... sometimes when im reversing into a parking space and turning the wheel. Does that mean it's low on steering fluid? I can't see how it could come from the factory low on fluid...[confused]

You could go to an independent BMW mechanic or Dealer (only if they give a free estimate, ask) and ask them what they think needs to be fixed. That might provide some insight.
 
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jjjjjjj

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#4
well honestly, i helped change (2) e-30 rack and pinoins, both from '87 325i convertibles (yes, we had 2...)

the first one had 224k on it and had no problems! found the rack for $40 from a local salvage shop from a wrecked 1991 325i with 98k on it, quite a find. replaced the tie rods, had no problems after getting a 4-wheel alignment. (this was moms car, rack was replaced because of a nasty leak, drove excellent before and after)

on my car @ 136k, it had been driven a bit more 'spirited' as i was replacing both front wishbones, bushings, wheel bearing and tie rods and even a wheel...my rack ($75) was pulled from a 1986 325 with 109k, and we found that lining up the 'knuckle' joint between the steering column and the rack was near impossible, IT JUST REFUSED TO GO IN! so after an half hour of so of 'convincing' with a crowbar and a large screwdriver, it finally snapped into place.

as for special tools, my father was a ford mechanic and we have done nearly all the work on 5 different e30's ('84 318i 2-door, 2 - '87 325i convertibles, '89 325i convertible, '89 325i sedan), and rarely need anything other than a nice crowbar, wrenches and a couple socket sets...and you'd be surprised at just what all those trunk wrenches can do for you.

after changing my rack, it drove and aligned perfectly and i kept up the 'spirit' untill i finally sold it (tears still come to my eyes) at 249k, so good luck!
 

jjjjjjj

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#5
ok, just to follow up for the rest of you do-it-yourself'ers out there, i replaced the bottom power steering return hose ($85) and have had no problems in 3 days. there were 3 bolts and a hose clamp, took about an hour!
 

epj3

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#6
logantv325iX said:
Sorry I can't help, but how was changing your E30 steering rack? I'm changing mine soon and I've kind of been dreading it/putting it off. I already have the complete tie rods, I just haven't ordered the rack yet. Did you need any special tools?
It's very easy!!

Remember, you'll have to replace the BOOT STRAPS, and the locking plate.

I replaced my rack a month ago (at the same time I replaced a bunch of other stuff, like the center support bearing and flex disc.) and it wasnt difficult.

You just loosen the nuts on the steering linkage (BOTH of them, the one at the firewall and the one at the rack). Then let everything drain and after you remove the hoses (don't loose the washers), remove the (i think 17mm?) nut/bolt that holds the rack to the subframe.

BMW calls for you to raise the engine to pull the rack out. I simply bent down the 2 tabs that hold the rack on, and slid it out. Then when I put it back in, I bet the taps up with a jack, and then made sure the nuts were very tight.

Job time: 3 hours, and then the alignment (You'll absolutely need an alignment... if you don't, you'll wear your tires down in a week)
 


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