Shaky Steering
- Thread starter jlfarley
- Start date
I don't have any info that might help you but I experience similar problem sometimes. The last I remember was when the steering wheel went left and right pretty fast and speeds from about 37 to 50 mph. It is normal when I go slower than 37 and faster than 50. When I use the brakes it goes away. The same thing happened before but at higher speed but it went away the next day. My guess is that snow may get stuck in either the left or the right wheel and greats the vibration but then again the vibration should get stronger with speed but it disapeared after 50. I remember a while back my dad's Corsica had the same problem and when we stopped to take a look, the rear right tire was missing quite a big piece of thread, we could even see the metal wire that is behind the thread. To solve youre problem you have to give us more info just like CTBMW said, when does it happen.
if it happens at certain speeds during straight driving the wheels might need a good balancing.
you reported that it happens worse during braking. that could be the steering link / the ball joint of it. when that is worn out the play increases. i heard some times already that in thoses cases you have some vibration that increases during breaking.
additionally, vibrations during braking can be a sign of bad rotors.
you reported that it happens worse during braking. that could be the steering link / the ball joint of it. when that is worn out the play increases. i heard some times already that in thoses cases you have some vibration that increases during breaking.
additionally, vibrations during braking can be a sign of bad rotors.
Lower Control Arm Bushings are worn out. Replace with M3 ones. and problem will be gone. You should also change the Tie Rods and Lower Control arms with new balljoints.
The M3 Bushings are solid and offset, they last forever and your car will have much better stability.
M3 Bushings are $114.00 at the dealer and Labor should be around $160 including alignment.
The M3 Bushings are solid and offset, they last forever and your car will have much better stability.
M3 Bushings are $114.00 at the dealer and Labor should be around $160 including alignment.
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Ball joint-something in suspension? I'm surprised the guy that did alignment didn't notice anything! I had same problem-40- 45 mph, high speed braking. Thought discs- was it sort of, but a long story, balancing, press. was OK, turned out to be ball joint.
Replace entire idler arm if that's the case-just a few bucks more! (another long story)
I would just have front end checked out.
Snow in San Diego I would rule out.
I really think where you had alighnment done should've spotted something-your car can be aligned? Mine doesn't (95 318I)
I don't know why I say this -but-keep us posted.
Good luck!
-Mel
Replace entire idler arm if that's the case-just a few bucks more! (another long story)
I would just have front end checked out.
Snow in San Diego I would rule out.
I really think where you had alighnment done should've spotted something-your car can be aligned? Mine doesn't (95 318I)
I don't know why I say this -but-keep us posted.
Good luck!
-Mel
Yeah, I guess I should have looked at the location, heh. Now I remember that when I just got the car, there was vibration of the wheel at certain speed and I think it increased as I applied brakes, it was mostly at highway speeds. The problem was the right front tire. Actually both front tires were bad, hard to explain the problem, it's like some parts were worn and some were perfectly fine, and it's not like it was from locking up the wheels at speed, it was worn out in some parts accross the tire, I'll try to draw it below.
Lets say that is the contact patch when the car is standing still.
----------
worn
not worn
worn
----------
Also, when the car was on the lift the mechanic spun the right front wheel and if you look at the lowest point of the tire you could see it going normally and then coming down like an 1/8 of an inch. Changed the tires and everything was fine. Maybe you have the same problem, or maybe I have no idea what I'm talking about and just boring everybody with my BS, sorry if I am.
Lets say that is the contact patch when the car is standing still.
----------
worn
not worn
worn
----------
Also, when the car was on the lift the mechanic spun the right front wheel and if you look at the lowest point of the tire you could see it going normally and then coming down like an 1/8 of an inch. Changed the tires and everything was fine. Maybe you have the same problem, or maybe I have no idea what I'm talking about and just boring everybody with my BS, sorry if I am.
Front end stability problems can be tough to find. Best bet is to have a GOOD front end guy look at it. In addtion to the other posts, this also can be caused by insufficient loading on the front wheel bearings (nut needs tightened), worn steering rack or pinion gear (not likely) or OVER inflated tires.
Start with the easy stuff - check your tire pressure.
Jack he front end up. Grab a wheel and try to wiggle it. If you grab it at 3 o'clock & 9 o'clock and it wiggles, tie rod/ball joint/other linkage are questionable. If you grab it at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock and it wiggles, nut may need tightening.
Start with the easy stuff - check your tire pressure.
Jack he front end up. Grab a wheel and try to wiggle it. If you grab it at 3 o'clock & 9 o'clock and it wiggles, tie rod/ball joint/other linkage are questionable. If you grab it at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock and it wiggles, nut may need tightening.
Hi
You said your steering wheel shakes, well take it to some place if you want but I can guarantee you that the problem are Lower control arm bushing as they are not solid rubber from factory. They have only small rubber pieces holding the arm in it and after years the rubber becomes soft and old so the arms starts to shake. You should also feel it during braking. Not many people can figure this out. You have to go to a very good place where somebody can be under the car while someone pulls in to the ramp and brake and than only than they can tell, because you would be able to see the lower control arms move in those bushings. You should replace this bushings with the E36 M3 ones. Those are solid rubber and are offset. Which means the hole is not in the center. This will provide you much better stability during high speed and cornering.
I do not know how many miles you have on the car but I recommend you replace the Lower control arms assemblies. It is $100 for each, but they come with 2 ball joints. You can also buy a sepparate ball joint for $20, but it will cost $150 to replace one!!! because they have to use the press and it takes more time than just replace the whole new arms.
I also suggest you replace the Tie Rods assemblies. They cost around $70 each. You are looking at about $400 plus the labor for all this.
But good professional mechanic should determine if you need new ball joints.
If you only need bushings than it will cost you around $250 including Parts,Labor,Alignment.
Steering Rack goes bad only in situations when the owner has a leak and the rack is running dry, but usually it should last at least 400000miles.
Good luck and let me know if they fixed for you.
You said your steering wheel shakes, well take it to some place if you want but I can guarantee you that the problem are Lower control arm bushing as they are not solid rubber from factory. They have only small rubber pieces holding the arm in it and after years the rubber becomes soft and old so the arms starts to shake. You should also feel it during braking. Not many people can figure this out. You have to go to a very good place where somebody can be under the car while someone pulls in to the ramp and brake and than only than they can tell, because you would be able to see the lower control arms move in those bushings. You should replace this bushings with the E36 M3 ones. Those are solid rubber and are offset. Which means the hole is not in the center. This will provide you much better stability during high speed and cornering.
I do not know how many miles you have on the car but I recommend you replace the Lower control arms assemblies. It is $100 for each, but they come with 2 ball joints. You can also buy a sepparate ball joint for $20, but it will cost $150 to replace one!!! because they have to use the press and it takes more time than just replace the whole new arms.
I also suggest you replace the Tie Rods assemblies. They cost around $70 each. You are looking at about $400 plus the labor for all this.
But good professional mechanic should determine if you need new ball joints.
If you only need bushings than it will cost you around $250 including Parts,Labor,Alignment.
Steering Rack goes bad only in situations when the owner has a leak and the rack is running dry, but usually it should last at least 400000miles.
Good luck and let me know if they fixed for you.
