Spark Plugs!!!

ace

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#1
GUys,

my 96 318is has done 120,000km.I guess I need to change the spark plugs.

Any suggestions? Any type or kind of spark plugs that will improve performance?

Anything else i need to change??

Cheers
 
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#2
If you need new spark plugs then your car probably needs a service anyway. I'd just get your mechanic to do it and he'll probably use the standard Bosch or NGK plugs which are great.
 

Big Daddy

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#3
Wow 120k on a set of plugs not bad. I recently replaced the plugs in my 91 318is before I sold it. I used Bosch Plat. as recommended by the owbers manual. I also did it myself. Be sure and use some "antiseize" on the threads before installing the new plugs.
 
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#4
I acutally read that it is better if you don't use "antiseize" on the plug threads. Something about that it interferes with the elctrical continuity. This is the same reason why Porsche does not use an antiseize compound. I will look for the article and post a link if I can find it.
 
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#6
You should always use antiseize on plugs if you have an aluminum head. The last thing you want to do is pull the threads out of the head along with the plug the next time you change them.

I used a copper-based anti-seize compound on my plugs. I highly doubt it has any effect on the conductivity of the spark plugs.
 
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#7
always use OEM spec plugs. My experience with plat plugs was not a good one. The car like crap, so I put the oem plugs in and it ran fine. Bosch or NGK
 
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#8
Food for thought- This is off of pelicanparts.com:

"Install each plug into the cylinder heads without using any anti-seize compound. Torque the spark plugs to 25 Nm (18.4 ft-lbs). While writing "How to Rebuild and Modify Porsche 911 Engines", I discovered that Porsche doesn’t recommend the use of anti-seize compound, as detailed in Porsche Technical Bulletin 9102, Group 2, identifier 2870. The bulletin applies retroactively to all Porsche models and the theory is that the anti-seize tends to act as an electrical insulator between the plug and the cylinder head. This could have detrimental effect on the firing of the spark due to the loss of a good, consistent ground connection. Keeping those findings in mind, I would make the same recommendations for the BMW cars."
 

Big Daddy

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#9
I can't argue with that, but must say that I never had a problem with my plugs. I have on the other hand seen many cylinder heads stripped when someone attempted to remove old plugs that did not have anti-seize on them. I began using it at the recommendation of my BMW mechanic. I'd suggest you discuss it with your local BMW mechanic.
 

epj3

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#10
Big Daddy said:
I can't argue with that, but must say that I never had a problem with my plugs. I have on the other hand seen many cylinder heads stripped when someone attempted to remove old plugs that did not have anti-seize on them. I began using it at the recommendation of my BMW mechanic. I'd suggest you discuss it with your local BMW mechanic.
And as justin posted, he is using a copper based anti-seize compound, which if ANYTHING will improve the conductivitity becuase there is probably more of the threads being grounded to the block. Plus people have been using antiseize for decades and never had problems.
 
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#11
I find it very strange that Porsche has decided not to use anti-seize compound on the plug threads. The first car I've had that had an aluminum head was my BMW, and I have used anti-seize on its plugs with no problems whatsoever. I don't use antiseize on the plugs in my Camaro, but it has iron heads, and they don't really need anti-seize. Everyone I have ever encountered that has aluminum heads has always said that you should use antiseize on spark plugs with aluminum heads. Aluminum is a LOT weaker than iron, especially with fine threads like those on spark plugs. With the constant heating and cooling cycles and the potential for oxidation in the threads due to the disparity between the aluminum of the head and steel of the sparkplug threads, you'd better believe I'm going to continue to use anti-seize on my plugs, no matter what Porsche says.

Just my opinion.
 
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#12
That really is ODD that Porsche recommends that. Even if you do use non-conductive antisieze compound on the threads, you still get more than enough electrical contact on the spark plug "shoulder" where it seats into the plug hole. How could Porsche engineers overlook or discount that?
 
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#13
I read that article after I did plugs and I did use antiseize. Next time I was going to try without but considering all your valid points I doubt it is even worth the risk. Has anyone not used antiseize? Notice any difference?
 
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#14
More food for thought.....

This is a BMW board and he asked about a BMW, not a Porsche, and certainly not the same 1965-1989 air-cooled engine that the TSB refers to.
 

epj3

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#15
bmidd said:
More food for thought.....

This is a BMW board and he asked about a BMW, not a Porsche, and certainly not the same 1965-1989 air-cooled engine that the TSB refers to.
I'm pretty sure he was just making an example.
 


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