I got my new M3.....again!!!
- Thread starter SilverM3forRob
- Start date
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Yeah Bryan, I had one about 10 months ago, and I had to take it back.....It was not repoed or anything, but I was kinda screwed, but it all worked out ok.....basically, my credit was crap at the time and I needed a co-signer, who backed out at the last minute.....after I already took the car from the dealer, and put about 500 miles on it........oh well........they ended up selling it for $6k more than they sold it to me. Crazy huh.....
I love my new one though, and she is staying for good......
I love my new one though, and she is staying for good......
Hey Tom, it is good to be back in the saddle. I had the 2003 Passat before, I still have it. I fixed it up so nice I did not want to get rid of it.
Hey Tom, I know all about the break in period and stuff from last time, but....... let's just say....for example......if one said driver of a.......M3........![[driving]](/images/smilies/icon_smile_driving.gif "Driving [driving]")
while breaking her in went a bit over 105mph, maybe once.......ok twice, and not that far over.......and lets say, this said person went over 5500rpm......say to 7500rpm......maybe 2 or 3 times.....it was quick though, and they also went to.......6500rpm 2 times..........or so, but has been really mellow the other times..........................
would you say that said driver is doing something bad, or is he.......or she being ok?????
Not mentioning any names or anything........I am just asking.
This may be based on a true story.....![[hihi]](/images/smilies/icon_smile_hihi.gif "Hi Hi [hihi]")
Talk to you all later.![[thumb]](/images/smilies/icon_smile_thumb.gif "Thumbs Up [thumb]")
Hey Tom, I know all about the break in period and stuff from last time, but....... let's just say....for example......if one said driver of a.......M3........
while breaking her in went a bit over 105mph, maybe once.......ok twice, and not that far over.......and lets say, this said person went over 5500rpm......say to 7500rpm......maybe 2 or 3 times.....it was quick though, and they also went to.......6500rpm 2 times..........or so, but has been really mellow the other times..........................would you say that said driver is doing something bad, or is he.......or she being ok?????
Not mentioning any names or anything........I am just asking.
This may be based on a true story.....
Talk to you all later.
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Hehe..I thought it was a Jetta, my bad. Anyway, its never good to exceed the recommended break in specifications. I'm sure it wont kill your engine/tranny but its something you should adhere to. Taking her that close to redline is a no no. My advisor mentioned that new engines contain small amounts of metal in the oil and its good to wait until your first oil change before driving it the way it was meant to be driven.
Engines don't really have a break-in period anymore. It is just the gears that need 500 or 600 miles to settle in. After that, you can drive it the way you want to drive it, just make sure to change your oil at 1,200 to 2,000 miles (advice I give to people who break in their cars hard, like I did). Driving hard for the 1,200 miles is not bad...if anything, the engine will burn a little more oil than normal.
BMW only puts that 4,000-rpm rule and 1,200 mile break-in because that's what people want to hear. The truth is, 4-stroke engines don't need to be under 4,000 rpm for the first 1,200 miles. You just drive the car the way you normally drive it and the engine will break in very quickly. The gears need about 500-600 miles to settle in, though.
SilverM3forRob has already done hard driving during his break-in period and he is just asking if it's okay or not...I'm being realistic and telling him that it's fine, the only thing is the engine may burn a little more oil than normal.
Oh yeah, and when was the last time you EVER heard a story about a late-model 4-stroke engine being broken in improperly?
SilverM3forRob has already done hard driving during his break-in period and he is just asking if it's okay or not...I'm being realistic and telling him that it's fine, the only thing is the engine may burn a little more oil than normal.
Oh yeah, and when was the last time you EVER heard a story about a late-model 4-stroke engine being broken in improperly?
elussive, y would bmw's consumers WANT to hear that? u're not making any sense, u're just repeating yourself. please explain why u think that the gears need to settle? i mean just the gears...
u say its fine but i say a brand new m3 engine should burn oil...its NOT normal.
ppl break their cars in improperly ALL the time its just that in today's day and age of leasing, u don't own the car long enough to deal with the problems u've caused...probably premature head gasket failure and all sorts of bad things can happen
u say its fine but i say a brand new m3 engine should burn oil...its NOT normal.
ppl break their cars in improperly ALL the time its just that in today's day and age of leasing, u don't own the car long enough to deal with the problems u've caused...probably premature head gasket failure and all sorts of bad things can happen
Look, while the car is being built, they take that car's engine and take the engine all the way to redline and they also spin the engine at different rpm's. This is a pre-break-in process so that when the owner gets his/her car the owner can just drive the car how he/she wants. 4-stroke engines don't break-in the way engines used to...as long as you vary the rpm's, they are fine. As for the gears, they are brand-new gears so they need a couple hundred miles to "settle in" to sort of "learn" how they work in the directions they turn and how they change. This takes about 500-600 miles...during this time you can take the gear to redline, but I wouldn't do a lot of drop-clutching at redline. Haven't you guys ever wondered why no matter what the redline for the engine of the car is, and no matter who the car is from, the manual always says to never go over 4,000rpm?? Also, did you guys know that Porsche has absolutely no break-in period? They just tell you to drive the car the way you want to, and so does the manual...this is the truth for all engines. Another example is with boats and 4-stroke engines (which are essentially car engines). If you get a brand-new boat with a brand-new 4-stroke engine, everyone from the salesman to the manager will just say "drive it how you want, just vary the rpm's".
As for the engine burning oil thing, they say that if you break in your engine real hard, it will burn a little bit of oil for the first few thousand miles, but then it will go away. And they say that if you break in your engine hard, the engine will work harder for you.
Personally, I drove my G35C the way I like to drive (I didn't baby it or anything) but made sure to keep it under 4,000 rpm until about 600 miles. After that, I just drove it how I wanted to. I followed this procedure because I called up Infiniti HQ and spoke with a technician and he told me the true break-in period of the engine is 500-600 miles only for the sake of the gears.
If you broke in your engine improperly, then you would know immediately...you would have engine failure (or the engine will do awful things) and the engine would require engine failure. Otherwise, just like every other new engine, if it is maintained well, it will last for a long, long time.![[:)]](/images/smilies/smile.png "Smile [:)]")
As for the engine burning oil thing, they say that if you break in your engine real hard, it will burn a little bit of oil for the first few thousand miles, but then it will go away. And they say that if you break in your engine hard, the engine will work harder for you.
Personally, I drove my G35C the way I like to drive (I didn't baby it or anything) but made sure to keep it under 4,000 rpm until about 600 miles. After that, I just drove it how I wanted to. I followed this procedure because I called up Infiniti HQ and spoke with a technician and he told me the true break-in period of the engine is 500-600 miles only for the sake of the gears.
If you broke in your engine improperly, then you would know immediately...you would have engine failure (or the engine will do awful things) and the engine would require engine failure. Otherwise, just like every other new engine, if it is maintained well, it will last for a long, long time.
That's not a good conclusion to make. A lot of M5's burn up a ton of oil...a lot of M5 owners keep a bottle of oil in their trunk it's so bad! But BMW says that after 10,000 miles, the M5 is supposed to calm down.
I don't understand why we are arguing here. This guy wanted to know if his slightly aggressive driving during break-in period was bad or not...I told him it was okay and that is the truth. I am so right and I have so much supporting evidence that there is just no point to argue with me. I gave the guy perfect advice...if it was wrong, I wouldn't have offered it....the end.
I don't understand why we are arguing here. This guy wanted to know if his slightly aggressive driving during break-in period was bad or not...I told him it was okay and that is the truth. I am so right and I have so much supporting evidence that there is just no point to argue with me. I gave the guy perfect advice...if it was wrong, I wouldn't have offered it....the end.
Hey guys,
I know BMW wrote these break-in instructions in the manual for a good reason. The M engine is a fine tuned precision machine, I am sure during their testing they took it to all ranges of engine speeds. As the manual says, keep it below 105mph and 5500rpm, I have been driving my car at all engine speeds under and around 5500rpm just like BMW wants me to. But there is the occasional 6000rpm shift, and maybe 100 miles later a 6500rpm shift. Then 200 miles go by and I did a 7500rpm shift, and the following 200 miles I was well under 5500rpm. I have brought it to 115mph once or twice, and that was not over 5500rpm. I was very mellow on the engine for the break-in of the tires (200miles) and the brakes (300miles) and now I have currently a little over 900 miles on the car.
I think what bmw is saying that an engine like this can be driven hard, but for the first 1200 miles you don't want to bring the engine to 7500 or 8000rpm every shift from mile 1-1200. I have checked my oil weekly and to date no loss in oil level at all.
I appreciate everyones advice, and take all in to consideration, but at first I was worried that I was doing something bad to my engine. I know BMW makes a great car, and that is why I bought it, and I feel that the very little hard driving I have done in my 900 miles of the car so far should not, and will not effect the lifetime of my engine, I have faith in BMW for that.
Thanks to all,
Robert
I know BMW wrote these break-in instructions in the manual for a good reason. The M engine is a fine tuned precision machine, I am sure during their testing they took it to all ranges of engine speeds. As the manual says, keep it below 105mph and 5500rpm, I have been driving my car at all engine speeds under and around 5500rpm just like BMW wants me to. But there is the occasional 6000rpm shift, and maybe 100 miles later a 6500rpm shift. Then 200 miles go by and I did a 7500rpm shift, and the following 200 miles I was well under 5500rpm. I have brought it to 115mph once or twice, and that was not over 5500rpm. I was very mellow on the engine for the break-in of the tires (200miles) and the brakes (300miles) and now I have currently a little over 900 miles on the car.
I think what bmw is saying that an engine like this can be driven hard, but for the first 1200 miles you don't want to bring the engine to 7500 or 8000rpm every shift from mile 1-1200. I have checked my oil weekly and to date no loss in oil level at all.
I appreciate everyones advice, and take all in to consideration, but at first I was worried that I was doing something bad to my engine. I know BMW makes a great car, and that is why I bought it, and I feel that the very little hard driving I have done in my 900 miles of the car so far should not, and will not effect the lifetime of my engine, I have faith in BMW for that.
Thanks to all,
Robert
break in
MrElussive you are absolutely correct.
Cylinder cross hatching wears down and becomes ineffective after the first hundred miles or so. The cross hatching is the only thing that helps the rings seat.
As far as bearings... no amount of run in is going to fix an improper bearing clearance, PERIOD!
You are better to do a half throttle run to 6000rpm than let the car cool down, then warm it up again and do a 3/4 throttle run to about 7000rpm, cool down again, then a full throttle run to red line. All runs should be in 3rd gear, and only when the engine is up to normal operating temperature. Change the oil and you are done.
Following the 4000rpm rule you are more likely to have improper ring seating issues than if you use the procedure above. Think about how an engine works and it will become clear. Cylinder pressures increase as throttle angle increase and rpm's increase. To get a set of rings to seat you need to push them on to the cylinder wall where they will be worn in by the cross hatching. Once the cross hatching becomes ineffective your opportunity to seat the rings is over. The only way to push the ring into the cylinder wall is to increase cylinder pressure.
Proper operating temperature is the most important thing you can do to make your engine last.
regards,
aaron
MrElussive you are absolutely correct.
Cylinder cross hatching wears down and becomes ineffective after the first hundred miles or so. The cross hatching is the only thing that helps the rings seat.
As far as bearings... no amount of run in is going to fix an improper bearing clearance, PERIOD!
You are better to do a half throttle run to 6000rpm than let the car cool down, then warm it up again and do a 3/4 throttle run to about 7000rpm, cool down again, then a full throttle run to red line. All runs should be in 3rd gear, and only when the engine is up to normal operating temperature. Change the oil and you are done.
Following the 4000rpm rule you are more likely to have improper ring seating issues than if you use the procedure above. Think about how an engine works and it will become clear. Cylinder pressures increase as throttle angle increase and rpm's increase. To get a set of rings to seat you need to push them on to the cylinder wall where they will be worn in by the cross hatching. Once the cross hatching becomes ineffective your opportunity to seat the rings is over. The only way to push the ring into the cylinder wall is to increase cylinder pressure.
Proper operating temperature is the most important thing you can do to make your engine last.
regards,
aaron